The ByWard Market is the beating heart of Ottawa. Established in 1826 by Colonel John By (the same engineer who built the Rideau Canal), it is one of the oldest and largest public markets in Canada. But it is more than a market. The surrounding neighbourhood is a dense, walkable grid of restaurants, bars, galleries, and shops that gives Ottawa much of its social energy. Whether you visit for an hour or spend an entire day, the Market rewards exploration.
The Market Itself
The outdoor market operates from spring through fall, with vendors selling seasonal produce, flowers, maple products, cheese, baked goods, and handmade crafts. The quality varies, but the best vendors sell genuinely local products that you will not find in grocery stores. In summer, the market stalls fill the ByWard Market Square and spill onto surrounding streets.
The indoor ByWard Market Building, a modern structure on the main square, houses additional food vendors, specialty shops, and prepared food stalls year-round. The lower level has international food options, while the upper level tends toward gifts and boutique items.
Where to Eat
The Market area has dozens of restaurants covering virtually every cuisine. A few categories worth highlighting:
Shawarma: Ottawa takes its shawarma seriously, and the Market is ground zero. Several shops compete for the title of best in the city, and prices are reasonable. If you have never tried Ottawa-style shawarma (garlic sauce, pickled turnips, and generous portions), the Market is the place to start.
Fine dining: The Market and surrounding streets (especially Sussex Drive and Clarence Street) have upscale restaurants ranging from French to Japanese to modern Canadian. Reservations are recommended on weekends.
Casual lunch: Grab a crepe from a street vendor, a sandwich from a bakery, or a quick meal from one of the many casual restaurants. The Market works well for eating on the go, especially in warm weather.
BeaverTails: The original BeaverTails stand is on George Street, and the fried-dough pastries are an Ottawa tradition. The Killaloe Sunrise (cinnamon and lemon) is the classic choice.
What to See and Do
Beyond eating and shopping, the Market area is home to some of Ottawa's key attractions. The National Gallery of Canada sits at the northern edge of the neighbourhood on Sussex Drive. The Chateau Laurier, one of Canada's grand railway hotels, anchors the southwestern corner. The Rideau Canal locks are a short walk from the Market, and Major's Hill Park (between the Market and Parliament Hill) offers green space and river views.
Sussex Drive, which runs north from the Market, passes the US Embassy, the former site of the Canadian War Museum, and several art galleries before reaching Rideau Hall (the Governor General's official residence) and the Prime Minister's residence at 24 Sussex. It is a pleasant walk with historical interest.
Evening in the Market
The ByWard Market comes alive after dark. Patios fill in summer, live music venues host performers throughout the week, and the streets take on a more social, energetic atmosphere. Clarence Street and York Street are the main evening corridors, with a mix of restaurants, cocktail bars, and music venues.
The Market is also Ottawa's main nightlife district, which means it can get rowdy on Friday and Saturday nights, especially in summer. If you prefer a quieter evening, eat dinner early and take a canal walk as the sun sets. The evening light on the canal is beautiful, and the crowds thin out quickly once you are a block or two from the Market core.
Practical Tips
The Market is most pleasant before noon on weekdays, when the vendors are set up but the lunch crowds have not arrived. Weekend mornings are busier but still enjoyable. Summer weekends can be crowded, especially during festivals.
Parking in the Market is available but expensive. Street parking is limited and metered. The Rideau Centre parking garage (connected to the shopping mall) is the most convenient option, though rates are high. If you are staying in the downtown core, walk or take the LRT instead.
The Market area is safe during the day. At night, stick to the main streets and busy areas. As with any nightlife district, use common sense and be aware of your surroundings.
For more neighbourhood guides, see our overview of Ottawa's neighbourhoods or our guide to spending a day on Elgin Street and the canal.